To give you some idea of the attraction of the verandah, over cups of excellent coffee (locally grown and roasted), we saw: Palm Tanagers, Bare-eyed Thrush, Blue-grey Tanager. Bananaquit, Green and Purple Honeycreeper, Silverbeak Tanager, Shiny Cowbird, Tropical Mockingbird, Blue-crowned Motmot, White-lined Tanager, Cocoa Thrush, Crested Oropendola, Ruddy Ground-dove, Boat-billed Flycatcher, Chestnut Woodpecker and Grayish Saltator. All before breakfast.

The walk with Jogi - this was just along a road, remember - produced Linneated Woodpecker, Streaked Flycatcher, Turquoise Tanager, Orange-winged Parrot, Tropical Peewee, Black Vulture, Rufous-backed Hermit, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher, Black-throated Mango, Euler's Flycatcher, Rufous-breasted wren, Common Blackhawk, White-bearded Manakin, Bay-headed Tanager, American Redstart, Golden-headed Manakin, Violaceous Euphonia, Violaceous Trogon and White-flanked Antbird. Whew.

The White-bearded Manakin lek was moderately active, with 6-8 males hopping around, snapping their wings and hoping for a date. They were focused on the competing males, and not at all bothered by the squad of birders. No still photo will ever do justice to a Manakin. Their lekking behavior is sound and motion.

All the way down the trail, we could hear at least one Bearded Bellbird. A few hundred yards further down the trial, directly over a sign describing the bird and its habits, was the Bearded Bellbird himself, also looking for a date, and determined to make more noise than a competing male across a small valley.